Adding to the supply pressure, France, Italy and Spain have endured three consecutive short crops. These countries account for 45 percent of global wine production, which means some wines may be scarce in the coming months. Wine producers in other parts of the world enjoyed better than average yields. In fact, most areas in the Southern Hemisphere produced a bumper crop in 2021. Given the competitive wine market, the situation is largely a problem for the trade rather than consumers. Bottles selling for less than $14 account for 75 percent of wine purchases in Canada. Established wineries are used to unpredictable vintages and other challenges. They will not push for price increases unless absolutely necessary because the market and variety is so large. But if production and shipping costs continue to escalate, some will have to pass them on to consumers. What makes an affordable wine good? Taste in wine is no different than taste in music. It’s subjective: Do you like wine or not? Would you like to have a second glass? The goal for recommending wines in this column might be to highlight interesting wines with a sense of place or a wow factor. But the first consideration is whether the wine has the intensity of flavor, balance and complexity to make it enjoyable. The growing season helps develop flavor intensity, color and other compounds in the grape berries that affect the flavor and character of the final wine. Many inexpensive brands come from warm climates that allow growers to ripen more grapes from each vine without losing the desired depth of flavor. Balance in the final wine can be described as harmony, precision or finesse. Nothing stands out. The components of the wine’s structure, mainly acidity and tannins, are offset by fruit, sweetness and alcohol to present a complete package. Complexity is the key to a good wine and comes when a wine reveals a combination of flavors and aromas in the glass. There are layers of notes instead of one or two dominants. The first impression changes as the wine spreads across your tongue and after swallowing. It is the most elusive element of cheap wine, which is often more simple in style than complex. Where to start your search for good, cheap wine Despite the reduced amount of wine produced in recent years, France, Spain and Italy continue to offer a well-crafted selection of affordable wines from lesser-known grape varieties and regions. Red wine lovers can find excellent value garnacha (also known as grenache) from Spain and the south of France. Central and southern Italy offer a steady supply of interesting and enjoyable wines made from native grape varieties such as montepulciano, nero d’avola and primitivo, as well as international varieties such as chardonnay, merlot and syrah. Savvy shoppers have long celebrated Chile and South Africa for great value options. These regions develop well-packaged and well-priced wines made with popular grape varieties that deliver the expected aromas and flavors of the grape listed on the label. I would also add Portugal to the list, particularly for lovers of dark and bold red wines that offer a lot of personality for their price.
Five value options to buy now
Now Merlot D’Italia 2021 (Italy), $9
A modern merlot made in Veneto, Italy, aromas and flavors suggest berries and plums with spice and floral undertones. There is some sweetness on the palate that makes this a smooth and approachable red wine that is enjoyable on its own or with a meal. The medium body and fruity style works as a nice base for sangria as well. Drink now. Available in Ontario at above price, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta.
Fantini Casale Vecchio Lot 23 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Organic 2019 (Italy), $9.95
Based in Ortona, Abruzzo, Fantini produces a strong portfolio of red and white wines from its extensive 4,000 hectare estate. This fruity and medium-bodied, organic red wine is produced under the Casale Vecchio label. Crafted in a ripe and exciting style with blackberry and plum fruit flavors with floral, licorice and spice notes, this value red is beautifully structured, with good length and complexity. Drink now through 2026. Available in Ontario.
Flat Roof Manor Pinot Grigio 2021 (South Africa), $12
This riper expression of pinot grigio offers attractive fruit, with a mix of lemon, peach and melon flavors, with some floral and honey notes. The style is fresh and balanced, making this abundant white a solid value. Drink now. Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta, $12.99 in Manitoba, $14.99 in New Brunswick, $14.79 in Nova Scotia, $15.84 in Newfoundland.
Marques de Riscal Rueda 2020 (Spain), $13.50
Rueda specializes in the production of white wines, with an emphasis on its indigenous grape variety, verdejo. Marques de Riscal has been producing this fresh and sparkling white since the 1970s and helped introduce wine lovers around the world to the ripe and refreshing nature of wines from this Spanish region. Look for a blend of tropical fruit and herbal notes, mainly fennel and hints of grass, sure to appeal to fans of sauvignon blanc and other aromatic white wines. Drink now. Available in Ontario at above price, various prices in Alberta.
Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2021 (Australia), $14.95
The viognier grape often produces a powerful and spicy style of white wine known for its floral aroma and rich, full character. Yalumba’s base expression is a less intense but equally enjoyable introduction to the honeysuckle aroma and peachy flavors of well-made viognier. White with weight and durability, it has beautifully concentrated aromas and a rich texture with an excellent balance of fruitiness and acidity. Drink now. Available in Ontario at above price, $16.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $18.49 in Saskatchewan, $15.50 in Quebec, $18.78 in Nova Scotia. Plan your weekend with the Good Taste newsletter, offering wine tips and reviews, recipes, restaurant news and more. Sign up today.
