At Koks I was presented with the greatest variety of flavors and textures of any meal I have ever experienced. Mattak was just a new flavor. there was also seaweed and seal blood tart, a savory combination enlivened by an emulsion of piped blue mussels, presented in a wreath of dark red seaweed like a Viking beard. Some dishes were more approachable, such as the ring of wafer-thin Greenland halibut rolls served with creamy halibut roe, with dill and a fluffy horseradish. The fish melted on my tongue like a Communion wafer. There were fresh local prawns with gooseberry puree, garnished with delicate sprigs of Labrador, a plant traditionally used to make tea. And of course there was blubber whale, a bit chewy but with the consistency of veal. Beef veal is also on the menu: although a relatively coarse meat, similar to steak stew, it is tasty and filling. Ziska’s skill is not only in combining the flavors of flora and fauna. (Who thinks of serving scallops with caviar cream?) His genius is also design. Each dish is a work of art, with many relying on highly sophisticated culinary techniques. Inside what looks like a sandwich is trout smoked in crowberry twigs, drizzled with parsley emulsion and fermented salsify. It’s bright and fresh. But the “bread” is actually crispy, salty salmon skin.
